Description
The azulejo — the hand-painted ceramic tile whose name derives from the Arabic for ‘polished stone’ — is Portugal’s most distinctive contribution to architectural decoration, introduced by the Moors and adapted into the characteristically Portuguese blue-and-white narrative tile panels that cover church facades, palace interiors, and railway station halls throughout the country. The finest exterior azulejo programs are found in Lisbon’s Alfama district — the city’s oldest quarter, which survived the 1755 earthquake largely intact. This photograph was made at 3pm on a south-facing church facade in the Alfama, when the afternoon sun creates an oblique raking light that reveals both the painted pictorial program on the tile surface and the three-dimensional relief of the tile joints and the occasional deliberately irregular tile that marks the hand-made quality of 18th-century production. The deep blue cobalt, produced from smalt glass ground to pigment, achieves its maximum intensity in direct afternoon sunlight.
